Types of Leather Used in Jackets: Complete Material Guide

Types of Leather Used in Jackets: Complete Material Guide 

Leather is not a single material. The word ‘leather’ on a jacket tag covers an enormous range of actual materials — from the finest full-grain lambskin used in a £3,000 designer jacket to the bonded leather scraps used in a £60 fast-fashion piece. Understanding the distinctions between leather types, grades, animals, and tanning processes is the single most valuable knowledge set for any leather jacket buyer. This guide covers all of it. 

For a focused comparison of the three most common leather types, see our lambskin vs cowhide vs goatskin guide. This post covers the complete material landscape. 

Part 1: Leather Grades — The Most Important Distinction 

The most consequential quality difference in leather is the grade — which layer of the hide is being used and how it has been processed. 

Part 2: Leather by Animal — What Each Brings 

Lambskin 

From young sheep. The softest and most luxurious leather used in mainstream jacket production. Immediate pliability and drape from new — no break-in period required. The leather of choice for luxury designer houses (Saint Laurent, Balmain). More delicate than cowhide — marks more easily and requires more careful maintenance. 

Cowhide (Steerhide) 

From mature cattle. The most durable leather used in jacket production. Full-grain cowhide is thick, stiff when new (requiring a genuine break-in period), and develops extraordinary patina over years of wear. The material of choice for heritage biker jackets (Schott Perfecto). Browse our biker jackets men for the best cowhide options. 

Goatskin 

From mature goats. Lighter than cowhide, naturally more water-resistant due to higher natural oil content, and slightly softer. A distinctive pebbled grain texture. Mid-way between lambskin and cowhide in terms of care demands and durability. 

Calfskin 

From young cattle. Finer grain than standard cowhide — more supple and with a tighter, more uniform grain pattern. Used in premium fashion jackets where a slightly more refined surface than cowhide is desired. Mackage uses calfskin in several of their premium pieces. 

Horsehide 

Historically prized for its combination of lightness and durability. Schott NYC uses horsehide in their premium Perfecto models. A tighter fibre structure than cowhide produces naturally high water resistance and excellent strength-to-weight ratio. 

Buffalo Hide 

The heaviest and most protective leather used in jacket production. A pronounced grain texture and extreme durability. Used in heavy-duty riding jackets where abrasion protection is the primary concern. 

Part 3: Tanning Processes — How the Hide is Preserved 

Chrome Tanning 

The most common industrial tanning method. Chromium salts are used to tan the hide — the process takes 1–2 days and produces consistent, uniform leather that dyes easily and has good water resistance. Most commercial leather jackets use chrome-tanned leather. 

Vegetable Tanning 

Traditional tanning using plant-derived tannins — oak bark, chestnut, sumac. The process takes weeks or months. Produces leather with excellent patina development and a natural finish. More expensive and less common in mass production. Premium heritage pieces and artisanal leather products often specify vegetable-tanned leather. 

Combination Tanning 

Some premium leathers use a combination approach — chrome tanning for initial stabilisation and vegetable tanning for finish development. This produces leather with the consistency of chrome tanning and the patina characteristics of vegetable tanning. 

Part 4: Surface Finishes 

• Smooth/Aniline: natural grain visible through a very light dye penetration. The most ‘natural-looking’ finish. Shows marks more readily but develops the best patina. 

• Semi-aniline: aniline dye plus a light protective surface coat. Balance between natural appearance and durability. 

• Pigmented/corrected grain: heavy surface coating applied over buffed leather. Very uniform in appearance — the typical ‘plastic-looking’ leather finish seen on budget jackets. 

• Nubuck: full-grain leather that has been buffed on the outer side to create a fine velvet-like texture. Durable but requires specialist care. 

• Suede: split leather (inner side of the hide) that has been buffed to create a soft napped texture. Less durable than smooth leather; more affected by moisture. 

Part 5: Vegan and Faux Leather 

The vegan leather market has matured significantly. Main categories: 

• PU (polyurethane) leather: the most common synthetic leather. Looks convincing initially; does not breathe as well as genuine leather; does not develop patina; degrades rather than improving over time. 

• Microfibre leather: a polyester/polyurethane blend with a more breathable structure than standard PU. Better durability than standard PU but still does not match genuine leather longevity. 

• Bio-based alternatives (mushroom leather, cactus leather, apple leather): emerging materials that have improved in quality significantly. Currently the most credible vegan alternative but not yet matching the longevity or performance of full-grain genuine leather. 

For environmental considerations: a full-grain genuine leather jacket lasting 25–30 years has a significantly lower lifetime environmental impact than four or five faux-leather jackets replaced over the same period. 

Browse our full men’s leather jackets and women’s leather jackets collections — every listing specifies the exact leather type and grade so you can shop with full material knowledge. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

What is the highest quality leather for jackets? 

Full-grain leather from an appropriate animal for the intended use. For fashion jackets: full-grain lambskin is the pinnacle. For durable everyday jackets: full-grain cowhide. For premium fashion-meets-durability: full-grain calfskin. Grade (full-grain) matters more than animal as the primary quality indicator. 

What is the difference between genuine leather and real leather? 

Technically, ‘genuine leather’ is real leather — it is a grade of real leather, the third-lowest grade. It is made from the lower layers of the hide and coated with polyurethane for uniformity. ‘Real leather’ is a colloquial term that includes all grades of animal hide leather. The naming is confusing by design: ‘genuine leather’ sounds like a quality endorsement but is actually a grade below ‘top-grain’ and two grades below ‘full-grain’. 

Is full-grain leather always better? 

For durability, patina development, and long-term quality: yes. For immediate softness and lightness: not necessarily — full-grain cowhide is stiffer when new than top-grain lambskin. The best choice depends on your priorities: full-grain cowhide for durability and heritage, top-grain or full-grain lambskin for immediate luxury feel. 

What leather grade do designer jackets use? 

Major luxury designer houses use top-grain or full-grain lambskin for their leather jackets. ‘Full-grain lambskin’ and ‘premium lambskin’ are the terms most commonly used. The specific tannery sourcing is a further quality differentiator that is rarely specified publicly but significantly affects the actual leather quality. 

Is nubuck leather good for jackets? 

Nubuck is full-grain leather buffed on the outer side to create a fine velvet-like texture — it is high-quality leather in terms of its source (the outer layer of the hide). However, nubuck is significantly more susceptible to moisture and soiling than smooth leather, making it a less practical choice for a jacket that will face regular urban wear and variable weather. Nubuck requires specialist care products and is better suited to dry-climate use.